Consciously Traveling Cambodia with Kids: Our Journey in Siem Reap
When we were originally planning our travels, my friend Chelsea told me, “You have to visit Cambodia!” She had lived here for six months after college and couldn’t say enough good things about the people, the place, and the hospitality. I immediately told Matt to add it to the itinerary, but as the time got closer, so much fear crept into me. Cambodia felt so far and so unknown. I almost convinced him to stay in Koh Samui for another week instead of getting on our flight. But then, that same friend shared a book with me, “First, They Killed My Father.”
I started it the day before we were set to leave. It was the story of a young child and her lived experiences as a child soldier during the Pol Pot Khmer Rouge reign, also known as the Cambodian genocide. I was about half-way through when we got to Cambodia, and spent the next two days listening to it while driving the same streets, looking into the faces of the same people who lived through it all. It broke me open and allowed Cambodia to move me in a way no place ever has, truthfully. This country has stayed with us all, down to Ellie who still asks about “Mr. Bun Tong” weekly and I know we’ll find our way back here some day. So here’s a look at our experiences consciously travelling Cambodia with our two young kids!
Travelling to Siem Reap
My first impressions were rough. We flew into Siem Reap and were immediately greeted by the most challenging customs process we had experienced yet. Looking back, it wasn’t that bad; it was just 2 in the morning, and the lines were long. A few days before your flight, you’ll get an email to set up your e-arrival card. Make sure you do that because things are strict here, and they move you quick. One surprise for me when we got to immigration was that Cambodia accepts USD. Matt naturally had come prepared, but unfortunately, his dollars were not crisp enough, (this is a big thing around the city, too) so we had to wait in line for currency exchange anyway. There were a few more lines we were shuffled through before being moved toward the doors, and it wasn’t until we were finally outside looking at our driver that we realized we had forgotten to collect our luggage. In our defense, it was chaotic, but not as chaotic as trying to get them to let us back in. Thirty minutes later, bags were in hand, two little girlies were sleeping and we were on our way to our hotel.
Conscious Accommodations
Our accommodation for the next six nights was The Elephant Hotel, a small and intimate resort run by the Stay Nature management team, known for their commitment to conscious travel. Let’s talk about conscious travel for a second because it’s not something I knew about before coming to Cambodia. While tourism is vital to their country, it has to be done the right way. At the end of this post, I’m going to share some of the things I learned about how to make a positive impact with your travel in this country, but staying at a Stay Nature property is a great place to start. They hire and train underprivileged Cambodians, teaching them English and expert customer service skills. This provides many opportunities for their future that they may not have been exposed to. On top of that, they are some of the kindest souls we’ve ever met. From the moment we arrived, the warmth and hospitality of the staff made us feel right at home. Each staff member went out of their way to learn our names, get to know our girls, and make sure we had everything we needed. The manager, Mr. P, is such a gift to this place, and his commitment to his job is inspiring.
Our gorgeous two-bedroom, two-bathroom suite came with a kitchen, balcony, and access to a beautiful pool. The in-house restaurant and bar, daily complimentary tea time, and on-site transportation just added to the comfort of our stay. They get their teas, snacks, produce, and as much as possible from local farmers and artisans to keep on their mission of supporting their community. Tuk-tuks are the main form of transportation for tourists, and The Elephant has 4 fully-staffed drivers ready to drop you at the night market, drive you to the grocery store, or take you on a full guided tour of Angkor Wat! We got lucky enough to become good friends with our amazing driver, Bun Tong, spending so much time with him around the city and at the temples. We learned about his family, his upbringing and his culture. He and Matt even spent some time grabbing coffee after watching the sunrise at Ta Prohm together. It was such an incredible experience to learn how three adults from completely different ends of the earth can share so much. Luckily, with social media, we’ve been able to stay in touch to this day.
Experiencing Cambodia with Kids (consciously!)
I was sure we were going to run out of things to do and spend most of our time in the pool with the girls while here, but I was so wrong. There was so much available to us, and the girls, that we barely scratched the surface with only 5 full days. There were a few things we learned NOT to do, as well, so I’ll start with those:
No Orphanage Visits, Floating Village Tours, or Giving Money to Kids. Let me be clear that before coming here, these were all things I was FULLY intending to do. Cleaning up trash through someone’s home, and giving back to kids who have so little all felt like the right thing to do. However we learned that these activities often exploit vulnerable populations. Many orphanages have so few “orphans” nowadays and such a high demand for volunteer opportunities, that they make deals with local underprivileged families to send their children to the orphanages for financial support. On top of that, the rotating door of new faces coming in and out of these children's lives can significantly impact them. You wouldn’t want your child to have a new teacher every day at school, would you? The same goes for giving money or buying from children on the streets. This can put them in dangerous and vulnerable positions in the long-run. Spending your money consciously and if wanting to volunteer, long-term (1 year+) roles that are focused on creating more experiences and job opportunities for Cambodians is the way to go.
Now onto things TO do:
Cambodia Landmine Museum: This was such a moving experience for us. We had the privilege of meeting Aki Ra, the founder, who is a former child soldier and now works tirelessly to clear landmines and other explosive ordinances left over from the war during Pol Pot’s Khmer Rouge regime. These landmines are responsible for injuries and deaths to this day.
Angkor Wat: Also known as the eighth world wonder, Angkor Wat truly exceeded all expectations. This is the largest religious monument in the world by land mass, made up of over 1,000 temples and structures. It was built between 1113 and 1150 AD, and when you see the intricate designs and the vastness of it, you won’t believe humans built this. We visited several temples including Angkor Wat, Ta Prohm, where Tomb Raider was filmed, and our favorite Bayon, the most incredible temple covered in 216 faces. I was nervous the girls wouldn’t last in the heat, but watching their eyes light up as they explored the ancient ruins was truly magical. We took early morning tours to avoid the heat and the crowds, which allowed us to enjoy the serenity of the temples. Pro tip: when the sprinklers turn on, run through them.
Phare Circus: This is not just a circus but a social enterprise that transforms the lives of Cambodian youth through art! We learned about this through a staff member at the Elephant and it is an experience you cannot miss. The performances are so captivating, amazing for kids, and give you another peek into Cambodian culture! If you go early, you can catch the performances of the younger children in the school Phare supports!
Lotus Farm: Visiting the lotus farm was a last-minute outing we wanted to check out, and like everything else, it blew us away. It was such a serene and educational experience. We learned about the significance of the lotus in Cambodian culture, the sustainable practices of lotus farming (there is SO much you can do with this sacred flower), and the mission of the lotus farm to provide jobs for local Cambodian women. I’m so glad we didn’t miss out on this. The girls loved it, especially the tea party at the end of the tour! PS, the drive here does take you through local villages. Remember to be mindful of photography, these are human beings living their lives and they don’t deserve to be exploited without consent.
Pub Street Market: Like everything else, the night market is not to be missed. There is so much fun and excitement on Pub Street, from clubs, bars, and restaurants. And surrounding it you can find local street food vendors, artisans, and local children playing in the river. It’s such a fun atmosphere. Make sure you try out the fish feet massages and see if you can last longer than us..which was about 30 seconds LOL.
Daughters of Cambodia: One of the stops we didn’t get a chance to make was Daughters of Cambodia. This enterprise is doing incredible work in the community to truly transform lives. A bit about their mission: “We go into red-light establishments in the city and offer girls working there an opportunity to start a new life. We do this by providing ethical jobs in our social enterprises coupled with recovery programs, including social work support services and health care. We are not a shelter, and prefer empowering girls to sustain their new lives in non-institutional settings, so that they're able to remain connected to their communities and families.” There are a number of way you can support them from afar, just head to https://www.daughtersofcambodia.org/support-us.
Food
Eating consciously is another way to make a positive impact, and I wish I had known this going in. Siem Reap has several training restaurants where they provide jobs and training to disadvantaged youth, helping them build better futures. The service you get from them is what I was trained to give at the 5-star restaurant I worked at for years! The staff is always so kind and gracious, and the love for their jobs is felt (and tasted) through every part of the experience. Here are some of our favorites:
Haven: What a dream this place is. It’s in the most beautiful little space, covered in flowers and greenery. Here, they provide training and employment for young adults from orphanages and safe shelters. Their food is delicious, some of the best curry I’ve ever had, and their mission is inspiring. Don't miss their connecting coffee shop for a relaxing break.All of the allergens were listed which made this such an easy spot for us! $$
Temple Redesign Restaurant: This restaurant focuses on sustainable practices and supports local farmers. It’s located right in the heart of Pub Street, so you’re met with a super fun atmosphere and the food was amazing. The kids loved sitting on the rooftop and getting to look over the lively street. $$$
New Leaf Eatery: Probably my favorite spot we went was New Leaf. It’s off pub street and a little bit out of the hustle and bustle, but you’re met with the best food we had and amazing service. This social enterprise reinvests profits into the local community. They offer a range of local and Western dishes, making it easy to feed the not so adventurous kids, and their little library setting makes it a great place to relax with a book. We saw a few expats and digital nomads working at the bar top with their laptops out. Not a bad office! $$
We also checked out a few other restaurants before learning about the training restaurants.
Tips for Consciously Traveling in Cambodia with Kids
Here are some more amazing tips from Responsible Travel:
“The head is the 'highest' and most revered part of the body; never touch anyone's head. Conversely, the feet are the lowest; pointing your feet at someone or at a religious object, such as a Buddha statue, causes serious offence. Remember, most temples, including Angkor Wat, are functioning religious centres.
Never touch a monk, and men should always avoid touching Cambodian women.
Never give money to begging children, or those selling trinkets or booklets. Families may be encouraged to take their children out of school in order for them to make money on the streets. Worse, the children may be working for organised gangs, who force them to beg. Instead, look into local organisations who are working with street children and donate to those instead.
Sex tourism in Cambodia has not yet reached the levels of neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam, but it is on the increase. Most local people are keen to avoid this, as it tarnishes the tourism industry as a whole, encourages the hassling of westerners and leads to the trafficking of sex workers. Some bars and hotels, therefore, refuse to let western men in with Cambodian women in order to deter this practice – it’s a good idea to support these places. Female travellers of Asian origin may therefore be questioned and should carry ID – but remember, it’s ultimately for a good cause.
Do your bit to conserve Cambodia’s rich archaeological history; never touch carvings or bas reliefs, and do not purchase historical artefacts. As well as being irresponsible, it’s likely illegal.
You could use up dozens of memory cards on the photogenic Khmer people – but never take a photograph without permission, especially of monks or official figures. Strike up a conversation with your subject, find out more about them, and tell them who you are. Even better, if they are a stallholder or shopkeeper, buy something from them. This way, you both gain from the exchange – and your purchase will have a nice story behind it.
Keep it local. We always advise this in any destination, but in Cambodia this is even more important. There has been an influx of large, foreign investors drawing up plans to construct huge resorts, casinos and golf courses, particularly in Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and the as-yet pristine islands off the coast, and government corruption means that the land is not always sold to the most ethical investors. As well as the destruction of massive tracts of land and the unsustainable pressure these facilities place upon natural resources such as water, many local communities have been illegally evicted from their land without adequate compensation. And at the end of the day, virtually none of the money spent here will remain in the local area. All in all, it's an environmental and social disaster. So support local guesthouses and restaurants and don't travel halfway round the world just to play a round of golf.
Cambodia is having to rapidly adapt to the amounts of waste generated by tourism and development. Litter bins may be limited, so keep hold of rubbish until you find somewhere suitable to dispose of it. Bring reusable shopping bags so that you don't need to keep acquiring plastic ones; they fold up very small. Batteries are toxic waste and there is no way to safely dispose of them in Cambodia, so take them back home with you.
Remember to tip! Keep dollar bills in small denominations to support drivers, waiting staff and guides – many of whom may be earning salaries of just $20-$30 dollars per month.”
Traveling consciously in Cambodia has been such a life-changing experience for our family. From the history and culture to the warm hospitality of the people, this country has left a lasting impact on us. We hope our journey inspires you to explore Cambodia responsibly, even with your children, and make a positive difference through your travels!
